Maki Kagari - Hints and
Tips
Maki
kagari can be used in various designs, and spans the range of
difficulty in Temari designs. They can be very simple (yet at the
same time stunning
in their simplicity) or they can become very intricate. The bands can
simply overlap each other in repetitive manners, using varying numbers
of threads, or they can expand to be actual woven designs that can turn
out finely detailed images, similar to how a woven cloth can carry
finely detailed art. Stitched elements can be placed over or interwoven
with the wrapped bands, or the banded designs can stand on their
own. The
basic technique is
rather simple, but some extra hints can help:
There are two choices for measuring
off thread when making Temari using wrapped bands: you can either
pre-measure the length of thread needed by wrapping off around the mari
the number of times you will be wrapping in a section of the design
(including enough to anchor the thread at start and stop) or, attach a
continuous thread. To anchor a continuous thread, follow the photos
below: Thread a needle without cutting the thread from the spool. Run
the needle through the mari base, entering the needle at the point you
wish to begin the wrap. Pull the needle and the end of the thread
through the mari. Anchor it by running the needle back into the same
place it exited, and out at a random point. Snug the thread, and clip
off the end. The thread is now exiting the mari at the point where
the pattern wrap begins, and you have the full spool of thread at your
disposal to work with without worries of running short.
Threads are started and ended by
running parallel to the previous round. Be sure to keep the needle as
close to parallel to the band as possible. the direction of the needle
should be the same direction that the thread will be wrapped in; avoid
doing a "180" - reversing the direction. Staggering the starts and stops
is required for a smooth appearance, both within the same and adjacent
bands.
Not every maki design is a band -
some spread out across the mari but the threads gather through
keeper
pins at the equator. While keeper pins help to guide things,
it's also important to place the threads precisely as you wrap - the
smoother you place them, the smoother will be the finished design
especially where a lot of threads are converging at the obi. It's almost
impossible to correct a messy keeper bundle once it's been done. As you
delve deeper into wrapped patterns, you will find yourself trying to
determine spacing and thread needs. At some point you will probably have
to determine a thread gauge, unless you are following pattern
directions to the letter in terms of mari size and thread being used.
Gauge is how many wraps per cm (or inch, but cm is easier) the thread
covers. There are several ways to do this: make a test band on the mari,
wrapping for a given distance and count the number of rows required.
Another is to wrap around a ruler, covering the distance from 1-2cm, and
count the number of rows. Generally the finer the thread, the more
patience is required in terms of laying successive rows, to be sure that
the mari surface is completely and smoothly covered as the pattern
requires. Maki designs do tend to eat thread, but the also can yield
stunning results.
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