Maki Kagari - Hints and
          Tips   
        
                Maki
          kagari can be used in various designs, and spans the range of
        difficulty in Temari designs. They can be very simple (yet at the

 same time stunning
        in their simplicity) or they can become very intricate. The bands can
        simply overlap each other in repetitive manners, using varying numbers
        of threads, or they can expand to be actual woven designs that can turn
        out finely detailed images, similar to how a woven cloth can carry
        finely detailed art. Stitched elements can be placed over or interwoven
        with the wrapped bands, or the banded designs can stand on their
        own.   The 
basic technique is
        rather simple, but some extra hints can help:
        
               There are two choices for measuring
        off thread when making Temari using wrapped bands: you can either
        pre-measure the length of thread needed by wrapping off around the mari
        the number of times you will be wrapping in a section of the design
        (including enough to anchor the thread at start and stop) or, attach a
        continuous thread. To anchor a continuous thread, follow the photos
        below: Thread a needle without cutting the thread from the spool. Run
        the needle through the mari base, entering the needle at the point you
        wish to begin the wrap. Pull the needle and the end of the thread
        through the mari. Anchor it by running the needle back into the same
        place it exited, and out at a random point. Snug the thread, and clip
        off the end.  The thread is now exiting the mari at the point where
        the pattern wrap begins, and you have the full spool of thread at your
        disposal to work with without worries of running short.  
        
        
               Threads are started and ended by
        running parallel to the previous round. Be sure to keep the needle as
        close to parallel to the band as possible. the direction of the needle
        should be the same direction that the thread will be wrapped in; avoid
        doing a "180" - reversing the direction. Staggering the starts and stops
        is required for a smooth appearance, both within the same and adjacent
        bands. 
        
               Not every maki design is a band -
        some spread out across the mari but the threads gather through 
keeper
          pins at the equator.  While keeper pins help to guide things,
        it's also important to place the threads precisely as you wrap - the
        smoother you place them, the smoother will be the finished design
        especially where a lot of threads are converging at the obi. It's almost
        impossible to correct a messy keeper bundle once it's been done. As you
        delve deeper into wrapped patterns, you will find yourself trying to
        determine spacing and thread needs. At some point you will probably have
        to  determine a thread gauge, unless you are following pattern
        directions to the letter in terms of mari size and thread being used.
        Gauge is how many wraps per cm (or inch, but cm is easier) the thread
        covers. There are several ways to do this: make a test band on the mari,
        wrapping for a given distance and count the number of rows required.
        Another is to wrap around a ruler, covering the distance from 1-2cm, and
        count the number of rows. Generally the finer the thread, the more
        patience is required in terms of laying successive rows, to be sure that
        the mari surface is completely and smoothly covered as the pattern
        requires. Maki designs do tend to eat thread, but the also can yield
        stunning results. 
              
               
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